Surf Is Where You Find It

Surf Is Where You Find It Author Gerry Lopez
ISBN-10 9781938340260
Release
Publisher Patagonia
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Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport — surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle (one of the fastest growing water sports in the world), now shares his stories about pioneering that sport. Conveyed in Gerry's unique voice, augmented with photos from his personal collection, this book is a classic for surf enthusiasts everywhere.



Surf Is Where You Find It

Surf Is Where You Find It Author Gerry Lopez
ISBN-10 9780979065934
Release
Publisher Patagonia Books
Download Link Click Here

Lopez, one of the most revered surfers of his generation, presents a collection of 41 profiles of those who have been influential in the sport--surfing any time, any where, and in any way.



Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life Author William Finnegan
ISBN-10 9780143109396
Release 2016-04-26
Publisher Penguin Books
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**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography**

“Reading this guy on the subject of waves and water is like reading Hemingway on bullfighting; William Burroughs on controlled substances; Updike on adultery. . . . a coming-of-age story, seen through the gloss resin coat of a surfboard.” —Sports Illustrated

Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List 

 
Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. 
 
Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves.
 
Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity.
 
Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
 
Praise for Barbarian Days:
 
“Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . But on a more fundamental level, Barbarian Days offers a clear-eyed vision of American boyhood. Like Jon Krakauer’s Into the Wild, it is a sympathetic examination of what happens when literary ideas of freedom and purity take hold of a young mind and fling his body out into the far reaches of the world.” —The New York Times Magazine
 
“Incandescent . . . I’d sooner press this book upon on a nonsurfer, in part because nothing I’ve read so accurately describes the feeling of being stoked or the despair of being held under. . . . [But] it’s also about a writer’s life and, even more generally, a quester’s life, more carefully observed and precisely rendered than any I’ve read in a long time.” —Los Angeles Times



By Gerry Lopez - Surf Is Where You Find It (Second Edition) (2015-06-10) [Hardcover]

By Gerry Lopez - Surf Is Where You Find It (Second Edition) (2015-06-10) [Hardcover] Author Gerry Lopez
ISBN-10 8601422244182
Release
Publisher Patagonia
Download Link Click Here

By Gerry Lopez - Surf Is Where You Find It (Second Edition) (2015-06-10) [Hardcover] has been writing in one form or another for most of life. You can find so many inspiration from By Gerry Lopez - Surf Is Where You Find It (Second Edition) (2015-06-10) [Hardcover] also informative, and entertaining. Click DOWNLOAD or Read Online button to get full By Gerry Lopez - Surf Is Where You Find It (Second Edition) (2015-06-10) [Hardcover] book for free.



Surf Is Where You Find It

Surf Is Where You Find It Author Gerry Lopez
ISBN-10
Release
Publisher Patagonia Books, 2008
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Surf Is Where You Find It has been writing in one form or another for most of life. You can find so many inspiration from Surf Is Where You Find It also informative, and entertaining. Click DOWNLOAD or Read Online button to get full Surf Is Where You Find It book for free.



Surf Is Where You Find It by Lopez (2015-04-02)

Surf Is Where You Find It by Lopez (2015-04-02) Author
ISBN-10
Release
Publisher Patagonia; 2nd Revised edition edition (2015-04-02)
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Surf Is Where You Find It by Lopez (2015-04-02) has been writing in one form or another for most of life. You can find so many inspiration from Surf Is Where You Find It by Lopez (2015-04-02) also informative, and entertaining. Click DOWNLOAD or Read Online button to get full Surf Is Where You Find It by Lopez (2015-04-02) book for free.



Surf Is Where You Find It Paperback – May 1, 2009

Surf Is Where You Find It Paperback – May 1, 2009 Author
ISBN-10
Release
Publisher patagonia books (may 1, 2009)
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Surf Is Where You Find It Paperback – May 1, 2009 has been writing in one form or another for most of life. You can find so many inspiration from Surf Is Where You Find It Paperback – May 1, 2009 also informative, and entertaining. Click DOWNLOAD or Read Online button to get full Surf Is Where You Find It Paperback – May 1, 2009 book for free.



Surf Is Where You Find It Paperback May 26, 2015

Surf Is Where You Find It Paperback May 26, 2015 Author Gerry Lopez
ISBN-10
Release
Publisher patagonia; second edition edition (may 26, 2015)
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Surf Is Where You Find It Paperback May 26, 2015 has been writing in one form or another for most of life. You can find so many inspiration from Surf Is Where You Find It Paperback May 26, 2015 also informative, and entertaining. Click DOWNLOAD or Read Online button to get full Surf Is Where You Find It Paperback May 26, 2015 book for free.



Surf Is Where You Find It[ SURF IS WHERE YOU FIND IT ] by Lopez, Gerry (Author ) on May-01-2009 Paperback

Surf Is Where You Find It[ SURF IS WHERE YOU FIND IT ] by Lopez, Gerry (Author ) on May-01-2009 Paperback Author Gerry Lopez
ISBN-10
Release
Publisher Patagonia Inc
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Surf Is Where You Find It[ SURF IS WHERE YOU FIND IT ] by Lopez, Gerry (Author ) on May-01-2009 Paperback has been writing in one form or another for most of life. You can find so many inspiration from Surf Is Where You Find It[ SURF IS WHERE YOU FIND IT ] by Lopez, Gerry (Author ) on May-01-2009 Paperback also informative, and entertaining. Click DOWNLOAD or Read Online button to get full Surf Is Where You Find It[ SURF IS WHERE YOU FIND IT ] by Lopez, Gerry (Author ) on May-01-2009 Paperback book for free.



SURF IS WHERE YOU FIND IT サーフィンの神様、ジェリー・ロペスが綴るライフスタイルストーリー

SURF IS WHERE YOU FIND IT サーフィンの神様、ジェリー・ロペスが綴るライフスタイルストーリー Author
ISBN-10 9784568221343
Release
Publisher
Download Link Click Here

SURF IS WHERE YOU FIND IT サーフィンの神様、ジェリー・ロペスが綴るライフスタイルストーリー has been writing in one form or another for most of life. You can find so many inspiration from SURF IS WHERE YOU FIND IT サーフィンの神様、ジェリー・ロペスが綴るライフスタイルストーリー also informative, and entertaining. Click DOWNLOAD or Read Online button to get full SURF IS WHERE YOU FIND IT サーフィンの神様、ジェリー・ロペスが綴るライフスタイルストーリー book for free.



Surf Is Where You Find It

Surf Is Where You Find It Author Gerry Lopez
ISBN-10 9781938340253
Release 2015-04-17
Pages 240
Download Link Click Here

Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport — surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle (one of the fastest growing water sports in the world), now shares his stories about pioneering that sport. Conveyed in Gerry's unique voice, augmented with photos from his personal collection, this book is a classic for surf enthusiasts everywhere.



Surf Is Where You Find It

Surf Is Where You Find It Author Gerry Lopez
ISBN-10 9781938340048
Release 2013-10-06
Pages 240
Download Link Click Here

Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport — surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle (one of the fastest growing water sports in the world), now shares his stories about pioneering that sport. Conveyed in Gerry's unique voice, augmented with photos from his personal collection, this book is a classic for surf enthusiasts everywhere.



Surf is where you find it

Surf is where you find it Author
ISBN-10 490833501X
Release 2016
Pages 442
Download Link Click Here

Surf is where you find it has been writing in one form or another for most of life. You can find so many inspiration from Surf is where you find it also informative, and entertaining. Click DOWNLOAD or Read Online button to get full Surf is where you find it book for free.



Surf Shack

Surf Shack Author Nina Freudenberger
ISBN-10 9780451496065
Release 2017-04-11
Pages 272
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"Cabin porn goes coastal in Nina Freudenberger’s Surf Shack” [Vanity Fair], and here are bungalows, trailers, cabins, and beach homes where surfers retreat after a day on the waves. Peek inside the homes of longtime enthusiasts and dedicated newcomers that reflect not just a sport or passion, but also a way of life. Blake and Heather Mycoskie of TOMS, hotelier Sean MacPherson, Gypset author Julia Chaplin, and others have set up their spaces to embrace a casual ease and be the break between the waves. With vibrant photographs of design details and bright beaches—from Malibu to the Rockaways, from Japan to Australia—this book captures the soulful milieu of a lifestyle we all aspire to. "Surfers are a breed onto themselves and their homes . . . Nina Freudenberger has taken a good look at not only a number of these vastly different abodes but also a quick glimpse into the particular and even peculiar lives that are lived there. Because after all, to a surfer at least, surfing is the only life." –Gerry Lopez, renowned surfer, innovator, and author of Surf is Where You Find It



Barbarian Days

Barbarian Days Author William Finnegan
ISBN-10 9780698163744
Release 2015-07-21
Pages 384
Download Link Click Here

**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** *Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List* A deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer by the acclaimed New Yorker writer Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whitesonly gang in a tough school in Honolulu even while his closest friend was a Hawaiian surfer. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. He and a buddy, their knapsacks crammed with reef charts, bushwhack through Polynesia. They discover, while camping on an uninhabited island in Fiji, one of the world’s greatest waves. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he becomes an improbable anthropologist: unpicking the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissecting the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, navigating the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little understood art. Today, Finnegan’s surfing life is undiminished. Frantically juggling work and family, he chases his enchantment through Long Island ice storms and obscure corners of Madagascar.



Let My People Go Surfing

Let My People Go Surfing Author Yvon Chouinard
ISBN-10 9781101992531
Release 2016-09-06
Pages 272
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In this newly revised 10th anniversary edition, Yvon Chouinard--legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist, and founder of Patagonia, Inc.--shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth. From his youth as the son of a French Canadian handyman to the thrilling, ambitious climbing expeditions that inspired his innovative designs for the sport's equipment, Let My People Go Surfing is the story of a man who brought doing good and having grand adventures into the heart of his business life-a book that will deeply affect entrepreneurs and outdoor enthusiasts alike. "This is the story of an attempt to do more than change a single corporation--it is an attempt to challenge the culture of consumption tat is at the hear of the global ecological crisis." --From the Foreword by Naomi Klein, bestselling author of This Changes Everything From the Trade Paperback edition.



Force of Nature

Force of Nature Author Laird Hamilton
ISBN-10 9781605297965
Release 2010-08-31
Pages 256
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Laird Hamilton has been hailed as the world's greatest big-wave surfer. His first book, Force of Nature, allows readers a rare glimpse inside the unique philosophy that has created his circumstances, and not the other way around. After all, this is a man whose biological father abandoned him shortly after he was born; whose first job was working on a pig farm; who dropped out of school in eleventh grade. And then the career decision: surfer. Though earning enough to pay the rent as any kind of surfer is next to impossible, Hamilton has ended up in the place we all desire to be: doing exactly what he loves, becoming the world's best in the process, making a great living, being surrounded by nature and family, radiating peak health and fitness, and succeeding by any definition of the word. How did he get there? And more importantly, how can the rest of us join him? Force of Nature is a detailed map to that destination, with Laird Hamilton as the reader's guide. It's not about chasing trophies or accolades or cash. It's about quality over quantity soul and being true to your physical, mental, and spiritual roots. Not only is it possible to thrive in the modern world without adopting its harmful habits, it's essential. And not only has Hamilton mastered this balance, he makes a compelling and articulate case that anyone who wants to can do the same. This book is a deeply authoritative and cutting-edge guide to peak fitness in mind, body, soul, and surfing. It comes directly from the source and his inner circle, which includes those at the vanguard of sports, training, nutrition, and more. Former pro volleyball player Gabrielle Reece; surf legend Dave Kalama; fitness gurus Paul Chek, T.R. Goodman, and Don Wildman; and Food Network star Giada De Laurentiis all contribute their knowledge. Readers will get an all-access pass into an elite world filled with definitive and provocative ideas.



Soul Surfer

Soul Surfer Author Bethany Hamilton
ISBN-10 9781416510840
Release 2004-10-28
Pages 240
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The amazing story of the thirteen-year-old surfer girl who lost her arm in a shark attack but never lost her faith -- and of her triumphant return to competitive surfing. They say Bethany Hamilton has saltwater in her veins. How else could one explain the tremendous passion that drives her to surf? How else could one explain that nothing -- not even the loss of her arm in a horrific shark attack -- could come between her and the waves? That Halloween morning in Kauai, Hawaii -- a glorious part of the world, where it's hard to deny the divine -- Bethany responded to the shark's stealth attack with the calm of a girl with God on her side. Pushing pain and panic aside, she immediately began to paddle with one arm, focusing on a single thought: "Get to the beach...." Rushed to the hospital, where her father, Tom Hamilton, was about to undergo knee surgery, Bethany found herself taking his spot in the O.R. It's the kind of coincidence that isn't mere coincidence to the Hamilton family, a clan whose motto could easily be "the family that surfs and prays together stays together." To them it was a sign someone had a greater plan than the one they'd been working on themselves -- which had been to scrape together whatever resources they could to help Bethany rise to the top of her sport. When the first thing Bethany wanted to know after surgery was "When can I surf again?" it became clear that her unfaltering spirit and determination were part of a greater story -- a tale of courage and faith that this modest and soft-spoken girl would come to share with the world. Soul Surfer is a moving account of Bethany's life as a young surfer, her recovery in the wake of the shark attack, the adjustments she's made to her unique surfing style, her unprecedented bid for a top showing in the World Surfing Championships, and, most fundamentally, her belief in God. It is a story of girl power and spiritual grit that shows that the body is no more essential to surfing -- perhaps even less so -- than the soul.



Waterman

Waterman Author David Davis
ISBN-10 9780803254770
Release 2015-10
Pages 336
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Waterman is the first comprehensive biography of Duke Kahanamoku (1890–1968): swimmer, surfer, Olympic gold medalist, Hawaiian icon, waterman. Long before Michael Phelps and Mark Spitz made their splashes in the pool, Kahanamoku emerged from the backwaters of Waikiki to become America’s first superstar Olympic swimmer. The original “human fish” set dozens of world records and topped the world rankings for more than a decade; his rivalry with Johnny Weissmuller transformed competitive swimming from an insignificant sideshow into a headliner event. Kahanamoku used his Olympic renown to introduce the sport of “surf-riding,” an activity unknown beyond the Hawaiian Islands, to the world. Standing proudly on his traditional wooden longboard, he spread surfing from Australia to the Hollywood crowd in California to New Jersey. No American athlete has influenced two sports as profoundly as Kahanamoku did, and yet he remains an enigmatic and underappreciated figure: a dark-skinned Pacific Islander who encountered and overcame racism and ignorance long before the likes of Joe Louis, Jesse Owens, and Jackie Robinson. Kahanamoku’s connection to his homeland was equally important. He was born when Hawaii was an independent kingdom; he served as the sheriff of Honolulu during Pearl Harbor and World War II and as a globetrotting “Ambassador of Aloha” afterward; he died not long after Hawaii attained statehood. As one sportswriter put it, Duke was “Babe Ruth and Jack Dempsey combined down here.” In Waterman, award-winning journalist David Davis examines the remarkable life of Duke Kahanamoku, in and out of the water.



Surfing with Sartre

Surfing with Sartre Author Aaron James
ISBN-10 9780385540742
Release 2017-08-08
Pages 352
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From the bestselling author of Assholes: A Theory, a book that—in the tradition of Shopclass as Soulcraft, Barbarian Days and Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance—uses the experience and the ethos of surfing to explore key concepts in philosophy. The existentialist philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre once declared "the ideal limit of aquatic sports . . . is waterskiing." The avid surfer and lavishly credentialed academic philosopher Aaron James vigorously disagrees, and in Surfing with Sartre he intends to expound the thinking surfer's view of the matter, in the process elucidating such philosophical categories as freedom, being, phenomenology, morality, epistemology, and even the emerging values of what he terms "leisure capitalism." In developing his unique surfer-philosophical worldview, he draws from his own experience of surfing and from surf culture and lingo, and includes many relevant details from the lives of the philosophers, from Aristotle to Wittgenstein, with whose thought he engages. In the process, he'll speak to readers in search of personal and social meaning in our current anxious moment, by way of doing real, authentic philosophy.



Slow Is Fast

Slow Is Fast Author Dan Malloy
ISBN-10 1938340744
Release 2017-08-01
Pages 120
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Slow Is Fast recounts the experiences of Dan Malloy, Kellen Keene, and Kanoa Zimmerman during their 50-day, 700-mile bicycle adventure down the California coast. Along the way they meet artisan farmers, artists and craftsmen, road kill, and many great waves.



Surf Survival

Surf Survival Author Andrew Nathanson
ISBN-10 9781626369689
Release 2013-12-13
Pages 288
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Whether you’re a novice or an expert, Surf Survival is the handbook every surfer must have in his or her backpack, car, and beach house. With a slick waterproof cover and a handy travel-size format, Surf Survival explains everything from what to do about a jellyfish sting to what to eat for maximum energy out on the water. Also included are lists of common surfing hazards by region and wave science warm-ups, as well as detailed checklists of what to have on hand in case of an emergency. Be prepared for anything, whether you’re surfing a crowded beach in California or a remote island in Indonesia. Written and compiled by three expert surfers and sports medicine doctors, this full-color guide is a handy must-have reference tool for every surfer.



Touched by God

Touched by God Author Diego Armando Maradona
ISBN-10 9781101993408
Release 2017-05-30
Pages 256
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The long-awaited firsthand account of the most remarkable—and controversial—World Cup triumph in history, from the legendary player who made it that way “This is Diego Armando Maradona speaking, the man who scored two goals against England and one of the few Argentines who knows how much the World Cup actually weighs” In June 1986, Diego Maradona—one of soccer’s greatest and most polarizing figures—proudly hoisted the World Cup above his head. Since then, Argentina’s World Cup victory has become the stuff of legend, particularly their infamous victory over England—only four years after the country’s defeat in the Falklands War—which featured arguably the best goal in history (Maradona’s “Goal of the Century”) and the worst (the notorious “Hand of God”). But Argentina’s victory came after months of struggle and discord within the team, including the Argentine government’s attempt to remove the team’s management, a lack of equipment that forced the players to buy their own uniforms, and an argument that caused the team’s captain to quit on the eve of the tournament. Now, thirty years after Argentina’s magical victory, Maradona tells his side of the story, vividly recounting how he led the team to win one of the greatest World Cup triumphs of all time. From the Trade Paperback edition.



Caught Inside

Caught Inside Author Daniel Duane
ISBN-10 0865475091
Release 1997-04-10
Pages 256
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Recounts a year of surfing in California, shares observations on Pacific shore ecology, and looks at the history of the state and surfing



Welcome to Paradise Now Go to Hell

Welcome to Paradise  Now Go to Hell Author Chas Smith
ISBN-10 9780062202543
Release 2013-11-19
Pages 256
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A finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell, is surfer and former war reporter Chas Smith’s wild and unflinching look at the high-stakes world of surfing on Oahu’s North Shore—a riveting, often humorous, account of beauty, greed, danger, and crime. For two months every winter, when Pacific storms make landfall, swarms of mainlanders, Brazilians, Australians, and Europeans flock to Oahu’s paradisiacal North Shore in pursuit of some of the greatest waves on earth for surfing’s Triple Crown competition. Chas Smith reveals how this influx transforms a sleepy, laid-back strip of coast into a lawless, violent, drug-addled, and adrenaline-soaked mecca. Smith captures this exciting and dangerous place where locals, outsiders, the surf industry, and criminal elements clash in a fascinating look at class, race, power, money, and crime, set within one of the most beautiful places on earth. The result is a breathtaking blend of crime and adventure that captures the allure and wickedness of this idyllic golden world.



Saltwater Buddha

Saltwater Buddha Author Jaimal Yogis
ISBN-10 9780861719983
Release 2009-04-10
Pages 200
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Fed up with teenage life in the suburbs, Jaimal Yogis ran off to Hawaii with little more than a copy of Hermann Hesse's Siddhartha and enough cash for a surfboard. His journey is a coming-of-age saga that takes him from communes to monasteries, from the warm Pacific to the icy New York shore. Equal parts spiritual memoir and surfer's tale, this is a chronicle of finding meditative focus in the barrel of a wave and eternal truth in the great salty blue.



Surf for Your Life

Surf for Your Life Author Mick Fanning
ISBN-10 9781742750354
Release 2011
Pages 358
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Candid, self-deprecating, and absolutely unique, professional surfer Mick Fanning reveals his life story while imparting plenty of practical surfing tips Mick Fanning is young, but he's had many experiences that most of us never will. How does it feel to lose a brother? Win a world title? Rip your hamstring muscle clean off the bone? Weave through a zippering Superbank barrel for 20 or 30 seconds or paddle over the ledge at places like Pipeline and Teahupo? Have scoliosis so bad you can't get off the floor? Address the New South Wales state of origin team before a match, bowl to Matty Hayden, and have Dave Warner belt you for consecutive sixes? Mick tells his life story candidly—in turns funny, sensitive, thoughtful, self-deprecating—while providing intimate insights into the personal lessons gained along the way, with practical tips on surfing technique, fitness, nutrition, board design, travel, competitive strategies, and mental clarity. Mick has overcome personal tragedy and career-threatening injury on his way to claiming the 2007 world surfing title. Universally acknowledged as the most focused and driven competitive surfer of his era, his approach to surfing, sports psychology, life, and relationships makes fascinating reading.